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January 15, 2011

Hooded Eyes-Creating Depth and Shape

In this tutorial I took Jane's gorgeous eyes and show how depth can change the eye shape.  There are basically three areas where depth is created-lid, orbital ridge, and crease.  In hooded eyes, the crease will become hidden and so will part of the lid.  You might think why even emphasize that area if you don't see it.  Unless you are a mannequin and just stand there with your eyes open not blinking then please do not emphasize that area.  But, you do blink, look down, and tilt your head; others will see that area and the shape of your eyes.   

In order to understand basic placement, I used the same palette from the previous post.  I applied the colors differently this time to show some versatility; ivory on the browbone and peach from lashline up to the browbone highlighter.  A peach shadow can be used to neutralize blue tones on the lid.  When does this occur?  Let's say you didn't have time to put on concealer on the lid or you just didn't want that extra liquid or cream layer of concealer.  Or maybe the concealer  was too sheer and didn't cover the discoloration.  Just use the peach to get rid of it.  1-Placement of colors.  2-Blended. 


The first area that creates depth is the lid.  For smoky eyes this area is darkened and can sometimes make the eyes look small or sunken in.  If you have deep set eyes, using a dark color isn't suggested unless you are comfortable with it.  Same for small eyes, it can look closed up but that is why lashes are added to give that eye-opening effect. 

When I apply color in this area, sometimes I will connect the top and bottom or I will leave it open ended like I mentioned in my corner/hinge post.  In this one I will leave it open ended but still create depth and with the way the eye rest it will look close ended.

The best way to see this area and the anatomical structure of the eye is to tilt your head back just a bit and look into the mirror should look like this-3.  Take the lighter brown color and apply onto the lid area which is determined by the eyeball that roams behind that fleshy skin.  4-The red arrow points to the indentation between the eyeball's muscles and the skull.  You don't want to go beyond that when you are coloring the lid.  The yellow curved line is what will become the crease, but you want to stop the lid color there for differentiation purposes.  5-And one of the easiest way to really get the shape of the lid is to start at the top corner and just go straight down towards the lashline.  6-You might notice that the color is applied at a slight angle-green arrow.  When this area of the eye relaxes, the color will be in line with the bottom lashline thus making it look closed ended.  7-From the side it might look like this when unblended.  8-Color in the rest of the lid.  9-Blended.  10-Apply a thick line of liner on the bottom, widening it as it gets to the outer corner.  I leave it disconnected from the top shadow.   11-Smudged.  12-Front view.  13-With the darker brown used it as a lash defining liner for both top and bottom.   14 & 15-Before and after.

Orbital Ridge and Crease

On occidental hooded eyes, part of the orbital ridge becomes hidden or rolls inward as the eye relaxes and looks straight and forward as seen in picture 2.  But it is still important to define this area for depth.

16-For an easier explanation and view I will use the eyes in the slightly tilted back position because the end result or front view is a bit different.  And for clarity purposes I removed the peach and ivory eyeshadow.  17 & 18-Similar to the lid application, I start this time from the lashline and angle upwards to the edge of the orbital ridge-approximately shown by green arrow.  How do you know when it ends?  Basically it is the curve of the browbone.  As soon as it starts to flatten out to become level with the eyebrow, that is the end of the orbital ridge.  This is also the area that will drop down and come in line with the lower lashline or maybe even be more extended thus making it look lengthened.  19-Continue the color inward.  I stop right before the crease curves downward.  20-Blended.  21-Different angle.  See how the orbital ridge drops down and extends beyond the bottom lashline?

This method does emphasize the crease but it actually creates length and I want to increase the depth of the crease so when Jane looks down or closes her eyes, it becomes more visible and divides the color of the lid and browbone. 

22-Draw a line with the darker brown shadow the length of the crease.  23-Blended.  24-From the front it looks a bit different since the crease is hidden.  It should look something like this.  (I added the smudged bottom liner.)  25-Angle when looking down or when Jane blinks.  See how the added crease color created more depth?  And see how it divides the lid area from the browbone.  26-Add a liner to define the lashes.  27 & 28-Before and after.

I have done this with basic colors because the basics are just that…basic and a need-to-know form of application.  This application is adaptable on all eye shapes.  Once you get this, then the rest is easy like gorgeously alluring eyes.  Next tutorial.  :-)

*Special thanks again to Jane for her pix! xoxo

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