How Wing Eyeliner Can Change Eye Shape

*Post originally written by Olivia J on Into the Palette.*

This is a short and simple tutorial.  I have skipped the usual brushes being used and eyeshadow colors since this really concentrates on one aspect of makeup--eyeliner.

Elongating the eye

Sometimes, a makeup artist or a regular makeup aficionado may want to change their eyes shape.  This may have to do with adapting the face to a certain character or just adapting an eye look to a certain eye shape.  Whether it is just for fun or for some editorial piece, changing the shape of the eye with makeup alone is always good to know.

Welcome Meghan, who volunteered her gorgeous eyes for this tutorial.  She has beautiful round eyes and wondered how to elongate her eyes.

The usual method for elongating the eyes is with eyeliner (and/or eyeshadows).  This is the simplest or reasonable way to change the shape quickly and easily.  The brain looks at the eye and sees the upper and lower lash line and deduces that just following these lines out to the side will just widen the eye. This is fine to a certain extent but don't expect it to shape the eye or bring it out and forward.  All it will do is widen the eye and flatten it out.  If that is the effect you are going for then that is fine but to give the eye the actual 3D look, where the end of the eyeliner is placed can really read differently for the camera and in real life.

1-Here in this picture I marked the orbital ridge in red and the corner of the lid in grey.  The corner of the lid is about the outer 1/3rd of the eyelid; the bulge of the eye begins to flatten into the side.   As usual, the yellow marks the area where the eyeshadow should be avoided only because the natural drop of the eye will lower that area and applying shadow there is really marking it more than shaping it.  (HOWEVER, that is not to say that you can't apply eyeliner all the way around when necessary.)  2-The arrow shows the gap between the grey and the yellow areas.  This is the area that can change the shape of the eye with shadow and/or eyeliner.  3-Here it is from a ¾ angle.

4 & 5-Take all the colors away and just marking that area in green.

Skipping the steps of eyeshadow application which can be found in many of the previous posts.  I have Meghan ready with just a basic eye look of creamy ivory from lash line to brow bone and defined her orbital ridge with a medium brown for some definition.  Emphasis is on the liner and the placement of it.

6-The shadows have been placed and the green area is marked.  7-Different angle.

The green area is looks like a slice of pie.  Now, imagine the crust of that slice, this crust should hit the orbital ridge.  (In extreme cases like in my previous post, the liner may surpass this point and extend onto the orbital ridge.)  Anywhere along that crust can change the shape of the eye.  Go up high and the eyes will look rounder and for mature eyes will give them a lift.  Go lower to the very end of that crust and it will elongate the eye in which case Meghan wants with her round eyes.

From the front, I like to mark where I will start which will be about 1/3rd of the way in from the outer end of the eye. It is really right after the center (bulge) of the eye which turns into the corner of the lid. 8-Marked with a black dot.  9-From a ¾ angle, continue straight to the lower end of the green crust.  10-From the front looking down the line should just look like a straight line angled upwards.

11-Continue the liner to the inner corner of the eye.  12-From the front, completed liner look.  13-Now if Meghan opted to line her eyes by following the upper end of the crust, the liner would end up looking something like this which would keep the roundness of her eye.

Add some mascara and here is the complete before and after.

For more about this method, read here.

Special Thank You to Meghan!!

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