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April 28, 2012

Elongating Round Eyes with Eyeshadow

Check out the updated post here.

In my last post which was awhile back (I do apologize), I showed you how to make round eyes look elongated with eyeliner.  In this one I show how to elongate them with eyeshadow.  I chose a basic medium brown eyeshadow about 2 to 3 shades darker than the skintone.  Now, you may be wondering why I don't choose flamboyant colors like many tutorials out there.  Well, creating the illusion of elongation and making it look as natural as possible is a lot harder than just applying beautiful colors.  Case in point, check out your favorite shows and look at the men.  (Yep, they are wearing eyeshadow to make their eyes look elongated or bigger, yet it looks natural.)  Once you understand how, then what you do to experiment is your artistry.

Again, I use Meghan for her round eyes.  You may apply a basic browbone highlighter if you want.  I am skipping the step.  As usual, for me, I find defining the orbital ridge is the most important. 

1-The red is the guideline on where the eyeshadow should end.  Notice that it isn't in line with the tail end of the brow.  We are elongating the eye, remember?  The guideline is basically determine by the intersection of where your cheekbone runs into the side of the orbital ridge.  (Just feel around, you should get it).  2-Starting in between the eye socket and the bridge of the nose (this area is bone and not soft like the eye area) apply the brown and curve all the way around to that guide line.  Why start at the side of the nose?  This kills two birds with one stone, you are contouring the nose bringing the attention to the center of the face and you are contouring your eye when you blend.  3-Yes, you should blend the brown up to the curve where you brow begins then curve into the orbital ridge shown by the green arrows. 4-Shaded orbital ridge.  5-Front view.

Okay, so the top area of the eye has been elongated.  Next is to do the bottom.  6-Taking the same brown eyeshadow, shade the bottom lashline starting about a third of the way in.  This is where the eye begins to curve into the side of the face.  7-Allow the liner to meet with the top.  (Yes, we are closing this one in.)  8-Front view.  9 & 10-Compare the before and after.  You can see the shading close to the nose has created the illusion of depth and brought the attention to the eyes.  The outer third of the eyes both on the orbital ridge and bottom lashline has the illusion of depth and elongation.

Now, to finish off the look.  11-As with my other tutorials, defining the orbital ridge provides division between the browbone and lid.  What you apply in these areas is up to you.  You can leave it neutral or apply color.  12-In this tutorial I will keep it simple and use the same color on the lid and just do a simple yet defined slightly smoky eye look.  13-Taking a shimmery charcoal grey, I am going to close off the lid area (check this post step 7 for more of an explanation).  14-Continue with this color and run it along the lashline about ⅓ of the eye or stop right before the bulge of the eye.  15-Front view.  16-Take a black eyeliner (cream, pencil, gel, cake, whatever) and smudge along the top lashline.  Remember to smudge the outer end up and into the shimmery charcoal grey.  17-Different angle.  18-For the bottom liner, start right after the tear duct and line all the way to the outer end but don't allow it to connect with the top.  19-Finished.

Here is the before and after with mascara.

Hope you found this tutorial helpful.  Remember, once you understand how to change the shape of your eyes, the rest is easy when it comes to expressing your artistry.  Leave any comments and questions below or even contact me if you like.  If you would like to volunteer for a future tutorial, please checkout the guidelines here.

**Special thanks again to Meghan! xoxo

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