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June 14, 2012

More on Contouring and Defining the Eyes Especially Deep Set Ones

I thought about explaining this method in the next tutorial but realized it would make the post way too long and most likely put you all to sleep.  I am not saying it is difficult, but it isn't exactly easy either because it has to do more with the anatomical structure of the individual's eyes.  The only way to explain this is to use a skull.  I found a volunteer, well actually I went on a rampage after my last post.  (<---Just kidding! I found a picture on the web and it is from Boneclones.com, a site that has many different replica skeletons from animals to humans. No affiliation whatsoever.)

Click to enlarge any of the pictures.

You know how I show you in many tutorials how to contour and define your orbital ridge/crease.  By now, I hope you kind of understand how.  Now, I have a chance to confuse you completely!  I don't really mean to but this method is used often because it kills two birds with one stone: contouring the eyes and contouring the nose.  This method also works well on men as it does on women.  If you watch many of the television shows and movies, you may notice that slight and I mean slight color change on the crease of the eyes of men.  This is just to define and add dimension to them.  This technique is also great on women with deep set eyes because it defines the eye enough without darkening the crease.

The volunteer for this post and the upcoming post is one of my cult followers known as Brelki on Pinterest

source of picture from boneclones.com

Let's review a bit.  Many times I mention the orbital ridge.  1-On the skull it is really the curve of the browbone.  2 & 3-Here is where it is marked in red on Brelki.  The actual ridge is created by the muscle that rests on top of that bone.  Thus, the semi hard surface acts as a guide to eyeshadow application and makes it easy too.  The crease appears when this area rests on top the lid.

pic from boneclones.com

4, 5 ,6-The area marked in green is the bone structure that creates the crease or allows the muscle to fold over the lid area.  As I mentioned in this post here, Asian eyes have less depth, therefore a crease is either there or not.  For others the depth of that indent also is the "hinge" of the eye which I mention several times and probably drive everyone nuts about.  It is the area that allows the eye muscles to open and close like a a hinge on a door.  This is also the area that loses elasticity as we age, droops over the lid, and creates crows feet.  (Yeah, just great.)  This is why eyeshadow placement is important.  Since this part falls into the background of the eyes, placement of eyeshadow in this area can create the illusion of depth and length. 

Okay, so I have reviewed where the orbital ridge/crease/outer edge of eye.  I am confident that you can feel the bone structure of your eyes and figure this all out.

Like I mentioned, the outer area creates the illusion of depth and length.  The same is true for the inner area which is the inner corner of the orbital ridge/bridge of the nose.

Pic from boneclones.com

7, 8, 9-Colored in yellow on the skull is the inner orbital ridge and bridge of the nose.  The color of the eyeshadow usually stops right before the nose starts to widen.  (Feel your nose and you will understand.) 

Now, that I have explained the orbital ridge in depth, let's define the eyes.

First thing that is important is to always have a neutral brown eyeshadow color that is matte or satin matte.  This color acts as a contour color.  The color usually appears in pictures as a soft outline or definition of the orbital ridge or may act as a deeper definition but never interferes with the actual style of the eye makeup.  (You will understand what I am saying in the next post.) 

For Deep Set Eyes

There are many methods to define the orbital ridge/crease area for deep set eyes.  For those of you who have them, you know that defining that area can make you look as though you have hollowed it out and darkens the eyes especially if you want to try smoky eyes.  You may also have skipped defining that area.  Here is another way to define yet making it look subtle.

Defining the orbital ridge/crease for deep set eyes
10-With a ¾ view of the eyes, super imposing the yellow to show where the inner area of the orbital ridge and bridge of nose.  Take a soft brush and follow that curve.  Stop right at about 1/3rd of the eye.  Instead of one continuous line. 11-Let's start at the outer end.  I put in the green mark so you can see it more clearly.  Color the outer orbital ridge into 1/3rd of the eye.  Basically, you aren't coloring the center of the orbital ridge/crease because it will be defined naturally by the anatomical structure.  12-Different angle.  13-Blended.

Non Deep Set Eyes

For others you may try the same method.  Nothing wrong with it.  Just depends on how you see it on yourself and how comfortable you feel.  14-If you aren't comfortable, just continue and connect by coloring the center.  15-Blended, contoured, and defined. 

Before and After 

Notice that the attention is brought to the eyes and the center of the face. 

This method really is a bit theatrical than natural.  If you really want to use this method but aren't sure, go for a matte taupe color and take a picture to see the results.  Taupe usually ends up like a no-color color in pictures.  You can see the change but it won't look as obvious.  Once you get comfortable, go for the brown. 

Hope you understood just a little bit of this post because you will need to know this in the next one.  And thank you again to all my readers, I appreciate each and every one of you!

Special thanks to Brelki for the pix. xoxo

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