Natural looking defined eyes sounds like an oxymoron but when you have the Fab Four eyeshadows, this is possible. Yes, this is another post using these basic matte colors of ivory, peach, taupe, and dark brown. I do these posts because they statistically receive the most hits compared to the glammed up eye tutorials. This tells me using neutrals or creating a natural look is difficult especially on Asian eyes which it shouldn't be, just takes some practice and know-how.
My popular post for Asian eyes happen to be the reverse contouring method on the eyes This post will be similar yet more detailed in the sense it will define the eyes much better and draw attention to them more.
The common mistake made in all eye shapes of all ethnicities is taking a black eyeliner and just circling the eyes a certain way to make them look bigger when in actuality they look smaller and confined. You have to remember the eyes and your face are three dimensional, creating the illusion of that depth and defining is what makes the eyes look bigger. In addition to the basic four eyeshadows mentioned above, you will need a black/brown eyeliner.
Since I used Jessica for the original post, I will use her again in this tutorial.
With Asian eyes, makeup can be done a bit differently since the there is no set crease. However, the bone structures are similar in a sense the eyes are made the same way, just the size of the orbital ridge and such are different. Unlike my previous tutorial on hooded eyes with the Fab Four, I start with the taupe because I want to create depth to the eyes and cut down on time.
As a first step I apply the taupe to the outer edge of the eye. I use the outer end of the upper lash line and the tail end of the eye brow as a guide. Just swipe down a line like you would see in the second picture. This is similar to what I did in the Shading the Eyes tutorial but with a more angular approach to draw attention to the eyes. The third picture shows how it should look from the front. Don't worry about this line because since it is a taupe, it will practically become invisible or appear like your skin tone.
Using the taupe again, apply from the side of the nose and onto the orbital ridge and the brow bone. Here, you are contouring the nose and contouring the eyes at the same time.
Apply the taupe to the bottom lash line in a thick smudged line. How it should look so far. You can see the taupe creates that natural depth to the eyes while separating it from the rest of the eye area.
To break up the monotony of the taupe eyeshadow, just apply a thin sliver of the ivory to 2/3rds of the brow bone. You still want the orbital ridged defined so don't apply the ivory all over the brow bone like in some fashion eye look.
Apply the peach eyeshadow all over the lid and just up to the taupe eyeshadow. How the eye looks so far.
Instead of creating or using the dark brown for the brown line. I am using taupe here to create a subtle differentiation of the lid from the brow bone area. I also start the line just at the side of the nose rather than down even with the tear duct. This line will define and draw more attention to the eyeball and lid area. The third picture shows how it should look so far with everything in place.
In this tutorial, the dark brown eyeshadow is important because it is used to create the roundness or the illusion of roundness to the eye socket area. This method isn't just for Asian eyes, it can be used on all eye shapes of any ethnicity.
Take the dark brown and apply onto the lid which for Asians is the area where it folds under when the eyes are looking straight ahead. You might see the color peek out just a bit when looking straight ahead, that is fine. You just don't want to color the entire area with it. The opened eye look is the goal in this look.
Enclosing the Lid-I often show enclosing the lid just at the outer end of the eyes but in this one I do it on both ends.
Take the dark brown shadow and apply from the bone that is the orbital ridge down to the outer edge of the top lash line. Remember, you are enclosing the lid so you shouldn't be hitting any bone on the side of the eyes. The third picture shows how it looks from the front. See how it just separates the eye socket or lid area from the rest of the eyes?
Take the dark brown again and apply onto the inner lid area. Again, you would stop when you hit the orbital ridge. You can see in the second picture, the fleshy eye area is larger than you would think. Remember, your muscles do relax when you look forward; therefore, it is important to use your bone structure as your guide. The third picture shows the the enclosure of the lid.
Next, take the dark brown shadow and just apply to the outer 1/3rd of the bottom lash line to create more depth to the eye.
Since I want a more natural look, for the eyeliner I am using a black/brown color. You can use black if you want but make sure it is a very thin line. You don't want the eyes to look smaller. Or you can use a dark brown eyeliner instead.
Apply the eyeliner from the inner corner to the outer. Right before you get to the outer end, slightly lift the end of the liner up like a winged eyeliner. Also notice, I extended the inner corner just a tad. This again creates the illusion of elongating the lash line.
The finished look when a picture is taken is really subtle. I simulated the end results in these pictures. The eyes and lid area look defined without looking like a definite separation from the brow bone. The look is natural. If you are wondering if this works on all Asian eyes, yes it does. It works especially well on monolids!
Edited to add: What it would look like on my mature eyes.
Hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions just leave a comment below. And, as always, a mention of this blog is always appreciated!
*Special thanks to Jessica!!*