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February 26, 2014

Update??? Sculpting the Eyes and Reverse Concealing


My friend once pointed out that if getting to a destination isn't a race, then how two people go from point A to point B shouldn't matter as long as they reach the specific place.  This holds true for makeup.

Recently, I have posted diagrams of eyeshadow placement in my Definitive Eyeshadow Guide. You can assume this is all done with powder eyeshadows, but that is just an assumption.  This time I show the method with creams and powders. 

I like to mix my textures because for one, I just don't like eye primers that much anymore.  They may make powder eyeshadow long lasting but on mature eyes, the wrinkly crinkly shows up more.  Two, powders alone will not have that textural look on the eyes, they end up looking flat on the skin.  This is where creams come in.  You may be saying they will crease.  Well, yes if you don't set them or if you use too much.  The key is always layering.

First of all, with this method, the eyes are made up first which means, foundation is applied AFTER!!!!  Applying foundation after is always good since any fall out from the powder colors can be wiped away and covered.  Eyebrows are also drawn after.

Here we go, first with reverse concealing.


I touched on this slightly here.  Reverse concealing is working with your dark circles.  For some reason, it is easier to layer lighter colors on dark than to neutralize them with the lighter colors.  I used my Kryolan Paint Stick in V27  which is a dark stick of color.  The darkness is okay since it will be lightened (sculpted).  The color is applied all over the eye like a raccoon.  Yes, this is one time you can be a bandit!

Sculpting with concealer is next. 

See how I apply the concealer on my browbone and onto the side of my nose and the outer end of the eyes.  I also apply onto the inner corner and on the bottom area.

Blended, the dark brown ends up looking taupe and you see the shape of the orbital ridge.  It doesn't look like much but it will get there!

Ivory Shimmer

I applied the color as shown in the diagrams.  The eyeshadow also sets the cream products I used to sculpt with.

Eyelid Shimmer

Like the diagram, I apply shimmer onto the lid and up until I hit beneath the orbital ridge bone.

Enclosing the Lid

Enclosing the lid is to darken the very end of the fleshy part of the lid or the eye socket.

Continue with the same color up and around the orbital ridge. (Use your best judgement on how far you want to go with this line.  I stopped mine about 2/3rds of the way around.)  Your brush will follow the bone structure.  Remember, to tilt your head back slightly and to look down without raising your eyebrows.  Don't be surprised if the line goes up pretty high as you can see in this post.

Eyeliner, Brows, and the Rest

Apply the eyeliner on both top and bottom.  Apply the eyebrows and finish with the entire face with foundation.  Any fall out from the eyeshadows will be wiped away.  Apply more highlighter beneath the eyes and cheekbones if needed.

The Finished Look and Spamming You with My Old Eyes


This method and look works on all eye shapes and all ages.  (It doesn't look bad on my close to middle aged eyes, does it?)  If you are wondering if it creases, it doesn't on me.  I have done this during the hot summer months also and haven't had problems with creasing or the wrinklies!

Again, if you have any questions of comments just leave them down below.

Remember, any mention of this blog gives an independent angel its wings!

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